Getting to know Sicily: Etna Rosso Edition

Oh hey! I recently posted about some white wine gems here so how’s about some reds? Yes, there are other red grapes in Sicily. But right now, the Etna DOC is gunning to become a DOCG (it’s like a DOC with a master’s), so now seems like an apt time to examine their star grape: Nerello Mascalese.

Okay I will pay lip service to other notable reds–the most notable of which is likely Nero d’Avola. They also do Frappato and a few other outliers (always with the Italian outliers). But anyway.

Today we are focusing on the Etna DOC and its signature grape, Nerello Mascalese. Yes, the Etna DOC is named for Mount Etna which is in fact an active stratovolcano–last eruption was actually August 15th–apparently it in an “eruption period’ that began in 2021 and in six months added 30 meters to its height?! That’s going on 100 feet. That’s a lot of lava, and a lot of winegrowers guts. I couldn’t stomach the risk, then again I live in SoCal where earthquakes visit during–omg–we have hurricanes now and if it isn’t pilot season, screener season or awards season it’s fire or mudslide season so what do I know from risk? All the same I really admire winemakers with the guts to farm a volcano.

The risk pays off though…the wines those volcanic soils upon slopes produce can be quite exquisite–PLEASE Italy, give them a DOCG already? Oh yes, as I mentioned, Etna is a DOC but applied to get that G for Garantita. As for Nerello Mascalese, Nerello refers to the black-toned color of the grape (Nerello Cappuccio for the same reason). It ripens late. It is lighter in body and tannins and veers towards the red fruit spectrum of flavors. Rather than bore you with generic terms, how about some recent gems (again with the stones! I need a new metaphor) that I tasted?

Okay, here we go:

2020 Tenuta Tascante Ghiaia Nera Etna Rosso she’s totally Nerello Mascalese and also 100% light with attitude. Lithe tannins, brisk acid, but serious fruit from blood oranges and freeze-dried raspberry to cherry cordial. Damn. Also spicy–like white pepper and a bit of fennel. With every sip I get something new. With time some blueberries and herbal tannins and show up and it contains multitudes.

2019 Familglia Statella Pignatuni Etna Rosso 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% unnamed “native white and black grapes.” Chill serene tranquil ruby red, quite translucent. The nose is cherry-rich–and maybe a hint of VA? But that blew off fast if it was ever there. Slight peps of allspice and nutmeg, maybe some licorice. The palate has such charming felt-y tannins and yet more red fruits with maybe perhaps kinda sorta some…menthol? I believe so. It’s brisk this, Nerello. The finish becomes rather molten and a touch cocoa-y. Geez, it’s great.

Getting to Know Sicily: White Edition

Holy schnikes (sp?) the more I drink Sicily the more I wonder why the f I’ve been to Italy 3 times in the last 18 months and not yet to this island turning out charming gems. I guess if you think of, like, gemstone gems, many people plot their lives around them (engagement blood diamonds, anyone) without ever planning to set foot near their origins. But these are not blood wines. Only bloody good. And geez I want to go to Sicily. And if I ever acquired a diamond I’d want to see where it came from too (hopefully to know no blood was involved).

Geez I know I’m a vampire but I gotta stop talking about blood. Onto the the island!

So what about it? Short story it’s an island southwest of Italy’s “toe”. I’ve known Italians and I’ve known Sicilians and while technically Sicilians are Italians some I have known defintiely want to make it known that they are part of Italy but…they are SICILIANS. Much like in Los Angeles we have our neighbors, I suppose. I mean I am (now) a Los Angeleno but I am NOT a west side one.

All of which to say is I often say how Italian wines from north to south often have an indelible stamp of being Italian on them but the Sicilian wines hit a little different. It’s south so you get richer fruit. But being an island there’s water all around, modifying the climate as well as…well its Mount Etna is an active volcano but with the risk comes hillsides with altitude, all the better for big diurnal shifts, my pretty.

Interestingly, the white grape Catarratto is the most planted on the island and–get this–the 7th most planted in Italy!!! Given the number of varieties Italy produces (A LOT) that makes Sicily a big ol’ winegrower, even if a chunk of said grapes’ fate was in grape juice concentrate or distillation.

Other major white grape players include Grillo, Inzolio and Carricante although I am honestly not sure when I have last tasted the last two…so let’s get into a couple of Grillo and Cataratto gems. May I see their homeland soon.

2021 Duca di Salaparuta Dados Grillo it’s a silky seducer, sliding around you, smelling not, say sexy, per se. But attractive–tropical fruit notes of guava, ultra-ripe passion fruit, cataloupe and something like orchids and then some sea spray. Then floral vanilla bean. Grillo take me away? Except yes actually please Grillo, take me away. The palate is, as I said silky. With all the aromatics mentioned plus a little pumice and sluices of key lime. Very sippable, pluggable, or pair-able. A parable for just open it.

2020 Alessandro di Camporeale Monreale DOC Vigna di Mandragola Catarratto is a golden child with a bit of an attitude–it’s all ripe melon and golden raisin spice interchanged with pungent and potent peas and wildflowers. On the nose. Super interesting. Silky and supple on the palate, and at once slightly pleasantly biting like when my cat, who NEVER bites, he loves me with his teeth. It’s a bit zingy and thrilling in its way. More salted melon and apple-y notes come out, closing with languorous honeydew, nettles and stones. Quite a lovely glass. From a fourth-generation producer on also west side of the island.